Generations of car enthusiasts and owners of hardworking commercial vehicles have been installing AutoMeter gauges since the 1950s. We are proud to announce that AutoMeter gauges and Gauge Panels are now part of RockAuto's catalog!

AutoMeter is an industry leader in product development and sets the standard for accuracy, precision and durability. AutoMeter gauges reflect timeless craftsmanship on the outside. Inside are LEDs, digital stepper motors and more of the latest technology to ensure durability, compatibility and ease of installation.

AutoMeter builds Multi-Gauge Kits to monitor oil pressure, coolant temperature, volts and other parameters in almost any vehicle. Complete gauge kits for hot rods, antiques or other custom vehicles include a speedometer, fuel gauge and more. Find these in the "Interior" category under the "Tools & Universal Parts" tab.

AutoMeter also makes gauge systems for specific cars and trucks. Individual gauges and Multi-Gauge Kits might have an OE look, but are completely custom. An example of this is the turbo boost pressure, pyrometer (exhaust temperature), and transmission temperature Multi-Gauge Kit that replaces the A-pillar trim on 2003-2009 Dodge Ram diesel trucks. Look in the "Interior" category to see AutoMeter gauges, Multi-Gauge Kits and Gauge Panels available for your specific vehicles.

Be sure to take advantage of AutoMeter's rebate on Gauges (Phantom, Pro-Comp, Sport-Comp and Ultra-Lite series products). The Gauge Rebate is running through June 30, 2017 and offers up to $250 cash back!

NeXterra is the official website of the North East Xterra Club. But if you do not drive a Nissan Xterra and/or live in the northeast United States, it does not matter, everyone is welcome!

The backyard mechanic will find a wealth of information on all years of the Xterra. Topics cover the maintenance and upkeep of your truck, tips on doing the work yourself and even a section on cool places to off road. Check out what the community has to offer today!

I recently purchased an older Mazda Miata. Shortly after said purchase, I started hearing grinding noises from the rear brakes. After checking the other wheels, I decided there was enough wear to warrant replacing all four rotors and brake pads.

I put the rear end of the car on jack stands and proceeded to remove the right rear assembly. It was pretty straight forward; took off the wheel, removed the caliper assembly, pulled off the rotor (with the help of a judiciously applied large hammer), reset the piston with a C clamp, checked to make sure the new rotor would fit with the new brake pads... Hmmm, there seemed to be a problem. With the new calipers in place, the rotor was about an eighth of an inch too wide. I called the person I purchased the car from, and he told me about the emergency brake adjusting screws on the back of the calipers. I adjusted them to obtain the clearance I needed, tried another dry fit, but still no go. At this point, I am getting frustrated.

I took a break to calm down and re-group. I got a cold glass of water, researched a bit online to make sure I was doing everything correctly. Yup...that is what you are supposed to do. I eventually went back to the car, and while comparing the old rotor to the new...hold on a second...I noticed something. They looked different. The new one was much thicker than the old one! I was trying to fit the front rotor into the rear caliper!

After that, it was so much quicker and easier to replace the rest of the brake parts. Note to self, when replacing front and rear assemblies, compare the parts BEFORE trying to put them in. The brakes work fine now.

Bill in Virginia

Tell us about your most infamous auto repair blunder or unconventional fix. Use your woe to help others avoid similar mistakes or share off-the-wall solutions that worked (at least for a while!). Please email your story to flamur@rockauto.com. Include your mailing address and if you would like a RockAuto T-Shirt (please let us know your shirt size) or Hat if we publish your story. See the T-Shirts and Hats under Tools & Universal Parts in the catalog. The story will be credited using only your first name and your vague geographic location (state, province, country, continent, etc.) so you can remain semi-anonymous!

Today's $2.50 gallon (3.8 liter) of gasoline equates to about what price per gallon in 1967 US dollars (adjusted for inflation)?

A. $0.34 per gallon in 1967 US dollars
B. $0.69 per gallon in 1967 US dollars
C. $1.07 per gallon in 1967 US dollars

Answer below

Old car enthusiasts enjoy spreading their enthusiasm to younger people. It is fun to watch confidence build and be reminded that I have learned more than I thought I did over the years. One of the biggest surprises was discovering how many potential car enthusiasts are intimidated by "step one" in the repair instructions.

"Step one" in the repair manual (under "Literature" in the RockAuto catalog) for removing the intake manifold, water pump, valve covers, fuel filter, knock sensor and countless other diverse parts is often: "Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal."

My son bravely handles the batteries for his laptop and other gadgets every day, but he worried the battery in his Lincoln would shock him while we were installing new driving lights (found under the "Tools & Universal Parts" catalog tab). It was routine for my niece to travel to Australia and drive solo into the Outback to service the water filtration system at a uranium mine, but she was worried about getting shocked when we installed a new battery in her Volkswagen.

Before showing a protege how to use a socket wrench or hose clamps, I relieve the anxiety about being shocked by the car battery. It may be relatively large, but it is still just a 12 volt DC battery. I feel no electric shock even if I simultaneously touch both of the battery terminals with my fingers. The 12 volt DC battery just cannot push enough current through my poorly conducting hand. (My hand and I have a masters degree in electrical engineering. Do NOT attempt this yourself, especially if you have a pacemaker, a metallic artificial hand or a relative who is an attorney.)

Connecting the positive battery terminal to the negative terminal (or the engine block/car body) with a good conductor such as a wire or metal tool will generate sparks and heat rather than an alarming electric shock. Connect the terminals together on a laptop's battery or a flashlight's D-cell battery and there will be sparks and heat too. The repair manuals tell us to disconnect the battery to avoid inadvertently creating sparks and heat that could cause a fire, melt something or damage a component that is more sensitive to small electrical currents than my fingers are.

New hybrid and electric vehicles typically still have a conventional 12 volt DC battery for accessories that is separate from the banks of higher voltage batteries and electric motor(s) that propel the car.

Of course, do not go overboard and challenge a protege to find a way to shock himself/herself with a car battery. I am sure my children could find a way to cause mayhem with a watch battery if I pushed them to!

Tom Taylor,
RockAuto.com

To read more of Tom's articles, click this link and choose from story titles on the Newsletter Archives page.

This is my 1966 Plymouth Fury 2 Wagon. My grandfather owned it until he passed. The car was left to his son, my uncle. He had no use for it, so he gave it to me at age 18. I had it for many years but moved away and could not store it. I sold it to a friend. He then sold it to a movie production company that used it in a movie called Black Christmas 2006. Then one day I did a random search on YouTube and found a test drive video of my old car! I contacted the maker of the video, and he put me in touch with the current owner. I contacted him and made a deal to buy the car back.

Thanks to RockAuto, I have been able to put my car back together and make her a daily driver. She now has a 383 4bbl with a 727 transmission. Through RockAuto, I have purchased oil filters, air filters, power steering hose, ball joint, ignition parts, front shocks and many more parts for this, and my other three cars.

Steve in British Columbia

Share Your Hard Work
Do you purchase parts from RockAuto? If so, RockAuto would like to give you the opportunity to have your car or truck possibly featured in one (or occasionally more) of our publications such as the monthly newsletter, collector magnets or RockAuto social media. New, old, import, domestic, daily driver, trailer queen, classic, antique, we want to see them all! Please email flamur@rockauto.com with your vehicle's history, interesting details, your favorite images (tips for taking pictures of your car) and what parts from RockAuto you have used.

Today's $2.50 gallon (3.8 liter) of gasoline equates to about what price per gallon in 1967 US dollars (adjusted for inflation)?

Answer: A. $0.34 per gallon in 1967 US dollars (Gas averaged $0.33 per gallon in 1967 in the US. The real price of a tank of gas is the same now as it was 50 years ago!)
B. $0.69 per gallon in 1967 US dollars
C. $1.07 per gallon in 1967 US dollars

Back up to trivia question